Friday, September 30, 2011
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Handwatering
Hand watering on a beautiful early morning or evening is a pleasurable experience that gives us the time to look more closely at our garden, the plants and the soil. We have more control over how the watering is done and can cater to the individual needs of different plants more successfully. Sometimes it is the only way to water plants deeply. Watering at these times helps to increase water penetration and minimise evaporation.
Potted plants under a verandah, eaves or awning must be regularly watered by hand and it is important to water the soil thoroughly all the way through. Check by feeling below the surface to make sure it has penetrated deeply. Soil can become hydrophobic if it is allowed to dry out too much and it is then difficult to wet again. Water will bead and flow over the surface of the soil and drain away without being of use at all to the plant. Wetting agents will have to be added to restore its water holding capacity. These can be bought in liquid or powder form and are applied to the surface of the soil.
Planters with a built-in reservoir at the bottom can save you time and water. Overflow can be prevented by checking the water level as the water drains into the base of the pot, and watering will be a lot less frequent.
Whether you are watering pots or plants in the ground it is important to water only the base of the plants. Keeping water off the foliage will reduce the chance of plants developing fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew. Pathogenic fungal spores will travel rapidly in water splash or soil run-off and infect otherwise healthy plants. Infrequent, deep watering will encourage root systems to penetrate the deeper soil layers and have access to more permanent water, as well as nutrients. A deeper root system stabilises plants, especially trees and large shrubs, making them less susceptible to wind, drought and insect stresses.
Plants require more water when in active growth and this may not necessarily be in the summer months. Observation of your own garden situation is critical in using water efficiently. The condition of the plants and the soil varies with the season; natural rainfall, temperature, wind and growth activity and these are conditions that cannot be taken into consideration with an automated watering system. Hand watering gives you the time to observe the changing relationship of all the elements that influence your garden and at the same time gives you the time to enjoy the plants and their smells.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
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Pond Maintenance
Water hygiene is an important part of pond maintenance. The appropriate way to improve water quality is through plant selection and appropriate maintenance techniques. Nursery manager, Tony Debincat uses a safe way of removing bacteria and excess algae. He adds a very small amount of Condy’s crystals to the water, which changes the colour to a reddish tint that lasts for around 2 days before clearing. This treatment doesn’t harm fish or plants if used in an extremely low concentration similar to very weak tea. In spring it may be necessary to clean out the pond and carry out any repair work. In summer, check water level and quality, check for algal growth, clean out the pump and filter and check for dead, diseased or damaged plants. In autumn remove any leaf letter and cut back any excessive plant growth.
Waterlilies play multiple roles in a water garden. Their large leaves create shade, produce oxygen, provide a hiding place for fish and produce large beautiful flowers. The tropical waterlilies can be distinguished from the hardier types that grow almost everywhere from the flower stalks, which are above the water. The flower buds and stalks are edible and can be used in salads, just peel off the ‘skin’ from the stalk before eating. The margins of ponds are usually planted with bog plants that are very important because they filter out any unwanted materials. Some good marginal plants include the flowering Woolly Frogsmouth, Philydrum lanuginosum and canna species like Canna indica. There are also some beautiful foliage plants such as Lepironia articulata. If you want advice or help choosing the right plants go to a specialist nursery and remember not to let your pond go, they do need some maintenance.
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Organic Principles
Organic gardens control pests and diseases in a number of ways. A good method is to employ crop rotation, which means cycling plants to a new bed every year, such that they are never in the same bed for 2 years running. Companion planting is another good method because these plants grow well together and protect one another. A good example is planting carrots, black salsify and members of the onion family alongside one another. Their different smells, colours and shapes confuse and deter insects. The same is true for sweetcorn, pumpkins, cucumbers and squash. Organic gardens are not free of pests, in fact they are full of them, but because no chemicals have been used, they are also full of predators which control pest numbers. Organic gardeners avoid using sprays by removing pest-infected fruit or shoots. For example, by removing young apples that were infected with coddling moth, the number of moths was lower the next year and fruit yield much greater.
There are many different types of organic gardens, not just fruit and vegetable but ornamentals as well. The plants in organic ornamental gardens have been nourished with rich organic matter and are therefore vigorous and healthy because they are strong enough to cope with and deter pests. Remember that organic gardening is not always easy or pretty, pests often nibble things but you will be better off for it in the long run. For example, Pete shows us a cabbage whose outer leaves have been chewed, but inside is a perfect cabbage that is very healthy because it has never been sprayed.
Friday, August 26, 2011
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Seaweed
The sea is more than salty water. The sea is a vast nutriment. It contains a large spectrum of trace elements in suspension, and some of the debris that is washed up on the beach like seaweed and shells also contains a quite a lot of these trace elements. Seaweed is one of the best soil conditioners of them all. Seaweed itself contains very little salt. It is the sea sand that is enmeshed in it that is quite alkaline and needs to be removed. It can be used around almost any plant except acid loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas or strawberries. It can be placed around but not near the actual plant, covered by peastraw or mulch, and will gradually convert to a jelly-like substance. Seaweed is not a fertiliser but a soil conditioner that has an amazing beneficial effect on plants. It can make them frost resistant and more resistant to diseases. The trace elements in the seaweed eventually are transferred to the soil and into the plant and its fruit.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
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Rhododendron
Planting a new rhododendron like Rhododendron ‘Bruce Brechtbill’ is extremely easy. Rhododendrons have a very fine fibrous root system that is quite compact and does not need disturbing before planting. Tease the base gently if necessary. No fertiliser should be used in the planting hole and the root ball should be placed in the hole so that the surrounding soil is level with the soil at the base of the stem. If the stem is buried beneath the soil it can go mouldy and rot. Once planted the soil should be covered with mulch, once again keeping it away from the stem. Spread a handful of blood and bone around the plant, covering it with a layer of coir to seal it and water in well. Seeing how luxuriantly these plants are growing, it is surprising to learn how low their nutritional needs are.
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Mulches
Mulch material that has not been composted can cause short term nitrogen loss from the soil beneath. As bacterial microbes use available nitrogen to aid in decomposition of the mulch above, nitrogen in the soil is depleted. Composted pinebark mulch does not have this problem. The yellowed leaves of herbaceous plants, caused by nitrogen or a nitrogen deficiency, can be relieved by the use of liquid feed containing nitrogen.
Another good composted mulch is made from wood-fibre waste from the paper-making industry. It can also be made from such things as wood crates or council collected green organic materials. It compacts well, doesn't blow away although it can have an organic odour for a few weeks. When using mulches, or composts, make sure it is kept away from the stems of plants as this can lead to fungal decay.
Monday, August 15, 2011
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Begonias
Tuberous begonias grow best in partial shade or filtered sunlight. Exposure to excessive sunlight can result in burnt flowers and leaves. Too much shade results in foliage that is very lush with few flowers.
Growers recommend shade when the sun exceeds 50,000 lux. As full summer sun in Australia is 110,000 lux this means 50% shadecloth would be required in most areas. Normal interior light levels measure around 500 lux.
Friday, July 22, 2011
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Carrot growing tips
Carrots are one of the best vegies you can get kids started with in the garden. They don't take up much space, either, so even if you have only a small patch of sunny ground available, you can get a small crop of carrots growing.
Seed or seedling? Carrots (Daucus carota ssp. sativus) grow better if planted as seed where you want them to grow, but you can grow them from seedlings, too.
Sowing times: in temperate climates, you can sow carrot seed from August to March, and in cool climates from August until January. In tropical climates you can sow carrot seed from February through to November.
Preparing soil: preparing the soil before planting is important, as carrots need deep, well-drained soil that is free of rocks, stones, old roots or anything else that could get in their way. Dig the patch over really well down to the depth of a spade (about 30cm), until the soil is fine and crumbly. Add some compost and well-rotted manure, and mix that in well with the soil.
Sowing seed: to sow seed, mark little rows in the soil 6mm deep (about a quarter of an inch) scatter in the fine seed, then cover with soil or seed-raising mix. Water with a gentle spray. Tip: carrot seed is very fine, so if you mix up the seed with some dry sand and sprinkle that into the soil furrow, you'll get a better idea of where the seed is going. It will take about two to three weeks for the baby plants to emerge. As carrot seed is fine, you'll probably sow too many, so you'll need to thin out the excess seedlings. Wait until the plants are about 5cm (two inches) high, then thin them out to 2-3cm apart. Later on, when they're about 15cm high, thin them out to 5cm apart (these second thinnings are usually big enough to eat, so you end up with better value for money, and more delicious carrots!)
Sowing seedlings: tip the seedlings out of the punnet and separate them into individual plants, then plant them into well prepared soil, spacing them 5cm apart. Water in well with a gentle spray, and keep seedlings well watered until they're growing well.
General care: carrots are easy to look after and just need a steady supply of water to keep them growing rapidly.
Harvesting: carrots will be ready for harvesting about 3-4 months after sowing. If you're not sure if they are ready, just pull one out of the ground and see how it's going. Don't feel obliged to pull them all out, either. You can just harvest as many as you need that night, and leave the rest in the ground until you need them.
Problems: if your carrots come up with weird shapes, there are two common causes. One is when carrot roots strike rocks, stones, old plant roots - the carrots will bend around the obstruction and grow into strange shapes. Another cause of odd carrots is clumps of fertiliser or manure - these will cause 'forking', where the carrot splits into a clump of several roots. The other common problem with carrots is due to too much nitrogen-rich fertiliser: you end up with lots of leaves above ground, but poor roots below ground. So, a good rule with carrots is to go easy on the fertiliser.
Best varieties: seeds provide the best choice of varieties, as your choice in carrot seedlings is quite limited. Look for good performers such as 'Topweight', 'Western Red' and 'All Seasons'. For shallow soils or pots, try 'Early Chantenay' or 'Baby'. 'Manchester Table' has cylindrical roots.
Saturday, July 09, 2011
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Currawong
The pied currawong is a large black bird, 41-51cm (16-20") with white markings on the wing, rump, undertail and tip of tail. They are found from Cape York to south-western Victoria ranging about 400km inland.
Today currawongs are common in urban areas although their native habitats are forests and woodlands.
Recent research shows that while currawongs have a specialised wild diet of bull ants and stink bugs and native berries, our introduced (not native) garden plants have provided a range of winter fruiting plants to eat during the colder months. Less than 30 per cent of Australian native plants fruit in winter, and so normally a lack of food culled younger and less vigorous birds.
Exotic plants including pyracantha, cotoneasters, privet and hawthorn - planted in the suburbs, as hedges - have tipped the natural balance in favour of the currawong by providing berries whose seeds are then excreted into native bushland.
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Controlling Bitou Bush
Bitou bush (Chrysanthemoides monilifera ssp. rotundata) is a sprawling, woody shrub from South Africa. It was deliberately planted in New South Wales from 1946 to 1968 to stabilise mobile sand dunes in sand mining areas.
Unfortunately, bitou bush has proved to be a highly invasive weed, which takes over coastal ecosystems and outcompetes native plants. It is now regarded as the worst weed in the Australian coastal environment, and has recently been listed as one of Australia's Twenty Weeds of National Significance. It occurs along 660km of the NSW coast, with almost pure stands along 220km. There are concerns that bitou bush will become the dominant species within its current range, and also that it could spread into Victoria and Queensland.
Control methods
A number of control methods have been used, including hand weeding and the use of herbicides and fire. These techniques have to be repeated over several years in order to be successful in the long term, as bitou bush has a large and persistent seed bank in the soil. In conservation areas these methods are not always appropriate, and having to repeat treatments is time consuming and expensive.
Biological control
Scientists think that an integrated management approach, including the use of biological control, is the best and most cost effective way to tackle the bitou bush problem. A research program to find suitable biological control agents has been underway since 1987. Several natural enemies of bitou bush have already been released, including the bitou tip moth and the bitou seed fly, and these insects are impacting on seed production and reducing plant vigour. It's hoped that the release of a new biological control agent, the bitou leaf roller moth, will help to reduce bitou bush to a level where it is no longer a problem, or can be effectively controlled by other techniques.