Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Increase signal
The problem with my work is I get a lot of calls from clients and my work place doesn’t have very good cell phone reception. I’m asking the boss to invest in a device that will increase signal in the office thus no one has to keep ducking out of the office just to take calls from the clients. I hope the boss will see sense in it and get us the signal booster. He’ll have to if he wants the sales.
Asian herbs and vegetables
Some varieties of Asian herbs and vegetables are becoming available in punnets, but they are very easy to grow from seed. Most varieties don’t like to be transplanted so it is a good idea to sow that seed directly. They need to be grown in areas of at least six hours of direct sunlight. In cooler areas most varieties can be planted in autumn or spring once any risk of frost has disappeared. In tropical areas Asian vegetables are a winter crop, so the seed is sown in autumn. When thinning out the seedlings don't throw them away as they are great used in soups and stir-frys. Coriander it is best grown in the shade as it goes to seed more quickly in full sun.
Some Asian vegetables to grow are: Pak Choi and Bok Choi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese White Cabbage), Tatsoi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese Flat Cabbage), Kintsai Apium graveolens (Chinese celery), Mizuna & Mibuna Brassica rapa Japonica (Japanese salad greens, Garlic chives Alllium tuberosum, Coriander Coriandrum sativum, Garland Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum coronarium var. spatiosum.
Some Asian vegetables to grow are: Pak Choi and Bok Choi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese White Cabbage), Tatsoi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese Flat Cabbage), Kintsai Apium graveolens (Chinese celery), Mizuna & Mibuna Brassica rapa Japonica (Japanese salad greens, Garlic chives Alllium tuberosum, Coriander Coriandrum sativum, Garland Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum coronarium var. spatiosum.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Roadside assistance plan
Oops! I think I’ve let my roadside assistance plan lapse. I’ve better check to make sure; I’m going to need it when I go on my road trip next month. Nothing worse than getting stranded in the middle of nowhere with no help for miles. Once that’s taken care of all I have to worry about is planning the trip; there are so many places I want to go but I might not be able to visit all the places. I’m going to need more time!
Potting mixtures
There are a variety of potting mixtures. Those designed for terracotta pots are full of organic matter to retain a lot of moisture. Some potting mixes are unusual such as the lumps of bark used to pot a particular type of orchid (Cymbidium) that grows on tree trunks and lives on the moisture and nutrients that run down the bark. This orchid would not survive in ordinary potting mix or soil because it needs excellent drainage that is provided by the coarse bark.
You can make your own potting soil. Start with garden soil, add coarse river sand to create a free-draining soil and coca fibre to retain some of the water. These components should be in a ratio of one third of each. This soil won’t go hard and the roots can penetrate it easily.
The soil used for raising seeds is different. Seedling raising mixes are pasteurised to remove all the organisms such as harmful bacteria and fungi. This is different to sterilisation which kills all living organisms in the soil.
Remember when handling potting and seed-raising mixes be careful as it may cause irritations or respiratory problems especially if you have allergies, or are susceptible.
You can make your own potting soil. Start with garden soil, add coarse river sand to create a free-draining soil and coca fibre to retain some of the water. These components should be in a ratio of one third of each. This soil won’t go hard and the roots can penetrate it easily.
The soil used for raising seeds is different. Seedling raising mixes are pasteurised to remove all the organisms such as harmful bacteria and fungi. This is different to sterilisation which kills all living organisms in the soil.
Remember when handling potting and seed-raising mixes be careful as it may cause irritations or respiratory problems especially if you have allergies, or are susceptible.
Wednesday, November 09, 2011
Best buy coupons
I’m not one to pay retail prices for the things I like. That’s why I’m always keeping a look out for good deals like best buy coupons that will save me a bundle whenever use them. There’s no limit to the things you can save with these coupons and I always recommend or even give some of my coupons to friends and family so we can all save.
Fruit Tree Planting
Deciduous trees can be planted out from a container at virtually any time of the year, but the best time is when the plant is dormant. The first thing to do when buying a tree is to look at the root system. The roots have usually been cut back so that the tree can be carried around. Thus the roots are relatively small compared to the height of the plant. It is also important to look at the grafting union on the stem to see if it has been damaged.
Inspect the roots and cut off any damaged ones. Immediately, place the plant in a bucket of water containing a small amount of seaweed concentrate to keep the roots moist and supply the plant with minerals.
You will need a wooden stake to provide the tree with support until it becomes established. Dig a wide hole. This is important because you do not want the roots to be bent. Once dug, take the plant and test the hole for depth and width. Position the plant so that the roots are just below the soil surface. If the hole is too deep fill it in a little.
Once the hole is the correct dimensions, position the tree and tie it loosely to the stake. Then begin backfilling around the roots with a mixture of mushroom compost, soil and peat to hold in the moisture. Make sure that there are no air pockets by gently shaking the stem so that the soil filters down thought the roots. Then fill in the rest and secure the plant to a stake.
After planting you must restore the balance between the shoot system and the root system by pruning the stems so that they are in proportion to the roots. The way you prune will depend on the shape of the tree that you want. If you want the tree to grow into a vase shape, then cut out the main stem and the smaller branches will fan out. Alternatively you can have a christmas tree shape with a dominant stem. To achieve this, prune the lateral shoots back at a bud that is pointing upwards. Next remove all the leaders bar one so that you have a single dominant stem. This leader can be tipped later on when necessary. Lastly, mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk. This will reduce weed growth.
Inspect the roots and cut off any damaged ones. Immediately, place the plant in a bucket of water containing a small amount of seaweed concentrate to keep the roots moist and supply the plant with minerals.
You will need a wooden stake to provide the tree with support until it becomes established. Dig a wide hole. This is important because you do not want the roots to be bent. Once dug, take the plant and test the hole for depth and width. Position the plant so that the roots are just below the soil surface. If the hole is too deep fill it in a little.
Once the hole is the correct dimensions, position the tree and tie it loosely to the stake. Then begin backfilling around the roots with a mixture of mushroom compost, soil and peat to hold in the moisture. Make sure that there are no air pockets by gently shaking the stem so that the soil filters down thought the roots. Then fill in the rest and secure the plant to a stake.
After planting you must restore the balance between the shoot system and the root system by pruning the stems so that they are in proportion to the roots. The way you prune will depend on the shape of the tree that you want. If you want the tree to grow into a vase shape, then cut out the main stem and the smaller branches will fan out. Alternatively you can have a christmas tree shape with a dominant stem. To achieve this, prune the lateral shoots back at a bud that is pointing upwards. Next remove all the leaders bar one so that you have a single dominant stem. This leader can be tipped later on when necessary. Lastly, mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk. This will reduce weed growth.
Monday, October 31, 2011
Christening invitations from invitationbox.com
We have a new addition to the family; my niece has just given birth to a baby boy and everyone is over the moon. Time to plan for the christening but there are so many people we have to invite from all across the country. A great way of doing it is using the christening invitations from invitationbox.com, that would save us time to do other stuff like party and gifts.
Hanging gardens
Hanging baskets are wonderful for utilising spaces that would otherwise be wasted. They are literally hanging gardens of foliage or flowers and can be inside or outside.
Finding the right basket for the purpose and plants is the first step. There are a multitude of different baskets. The two basic types are wire ones made from galvanised steel or iron and plastic ones with attached drip trays that are excellent for indoors. You can water baskets with drip trays quite a lot without worrying about over-watering, as long as the drip tray isn’t full. They are also useful because they can be watered directly into the drip tray.
The wire ones are relatively cheap and cost costs around $10. These baskets need to be lined in order to hold soil. You can buy liners or make your own out of shade cloth cut to size and pushed into the basket. To remove the folds, make slits in the cloth at intervals. The cloth will then overlap neatly in the basket. Use about 3-4 layers of cloth. Half fill the basket with potting soil and trim any edges of cloth that hang over. Hanging baskets can get very heavy, so it is advisable to hang them up while planting.
Add some cocoapeat or coir to the soil because this acts as a moisture reservoir which is important for plants in pots. Ferns make excellent foliage hanging baskets. Peter chooses a variety of ferns that can all be planted in the same pot and whose foliage complements one another. When planting ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the rim. Place the first plant in the centre of the basket, then gently fill in all the spaces around it with other plants. Peter selects about seven different fern species including a forest brake fern, variegated brake fern, two species of maidenhair, a button fern and two species of pilea, P. mollis and P. nummularifolia (Creeping Charlie) which is excellent for the edges as it weeps over the side. This ability to grow numerous species in the one pot is the great advantage of basket gardening.
Backfill, all the spaces between the plants by hand with moist but not too wet potting soil. It should still be able to flow into the crevices. Push the soil in lightly and finish by watering thoroughly to allow the potting soil to settle down.
Finding the right basket for the purpose and plants is the first step. There are a multitude of different baskets. The two basic types are wire ones made from galvanised steel or iron and plastic ones with attached drip trays that are excellent for indoors. You can water baskets with drip trays quite a lot without worrying about over-watering, as long as the drip tray isn’t full. They are also useful because they can be watered directly into the drip tray.
The wire ones are relatively cheap and cost costs around $10. These baskets need to be lined in order to hold soil. You can buy liners or make your own out of shade cloth cut to size and pushed into the basket. To remove the folds, make slits in the cloth at intervals. The cloth will then overlap neatly in the basket. Use about 3-4 layers of cloth. Half fill the basket with potting soil and trim any edges of cloth that hang over. Hanging baskets can get very heavy, so it is advisable to hang them up while planting.
Add some cocoapeat or coir to the soil because this acts as a moisture reservoir which is important for plants in pots. Ferns make excellent foliage hanging baskets. Peter chooses a variety of ferns that can all be planted in the same pot and whose foliage complements one another. When planting ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the rim. Place the first plant in the centre of the basket, then gently fill in all the spaces around it with other plants. Peter selects about seven different fern species including a forest brake fern, variegated brake fern, two species of maidenhair, a button fern and two species of pilea, P. mollis and P. nummularifolia (Creeping Charlie) which is excellent for the edges as it weeps over the side. This ability to grow numerous species in the one pot is the great advantage of basket gardening.
Backfill, all the spaces between the plants by hand with moist but not too wet potting soil. It should still be able to flow into the crevices. Push the soil in lightly and finish by watering thoroughly to allow the potting soil to settle down.
Rustic furniture
The best thing about moving into a new house is furnishing it. Every house is different so it is important that the furniture matches the style of the house to make the new home welcoming and cosy. That’s why I’m shopping for some rustic furniture for the new cabin I just acquire down by the lake. This will be my weekend retreat for years to come.
Composting
The secret to vigorous plant growth is using the finest of all organic fertilisers, compost. Almost anything can go in to compost from tea leaves to newspaper. It is virtually impossible to fill a compost heap, you can keep topping it up with organic garden and kitchen wastes and watering it down without it getting full.
There are different kinds of compost heaps. The smaller lidded bins are problematic in that they do not reach high temperatures, thus the waste takes a long time to degrade and weed seeds and pests are not killed. However, they are useful for small gardens, produce good compost and are full of worms. When the matter in them has degraded, they can be lifted up and moved, leaving a heap of compost for use in the garden.
If you are in a hurry to obtain compost, use a rotating bin. Organic matter is placed in the bin, the lid is closed and the bin rotated about two or three times a day. The bin has bars inside that mix up the compost and speed decomposition. Once finished, the bin is tipped up and the compost collected in a barrow.
The best way of making compost is to create a couple of wooden frames, one will contain fresh compost and the other old compost that can be used. The compost heap needs to get hot in order to kill weed seeds and pests. The base of the frame should be open to the soil. It should not be concrete because the worms must be able to escape the heat generated by the activity of bacteria that are breaking down the waste.
Begin by making a layer of organic matter, about a third of the depth of the frame. Next add a layer of manure such as sheep droppings, to weigh down the organic matter. This will encourage the bacteria to grow. A second layer of chicken manure is also good. It is essential to saturate the heap with water.
Start layering again with more organic matter containing straw and kitchen and garden wastes, you can even add cotton clothes. Build up successive layers of organic matter topped with manure and watered down each time until you have reached the top. Deep saturation is important, so water until it runs out the bottom. Water the heap regularly thereafter. The heap will become extremely hot. This means that it is working.
You can tell when the compost is ready to use as there will be no recognisable lumps of organic matter and it will have a rich soil texture. Use the compost in the plant hole of seedlings and for conditioning the soil prior to planting. Avoid using it as a mulch, rather mulch over the top of it with straw or dig it into the soil.
There are different kinds of compost heaps. The smaller lidded bins are problematic in that they do not reach high temperatures, thus the waste takes a long time to degrade and weed seeds and pests are not killed. However, they are useful for small gardens, produce good compost and are full of worms. When the matter in them has degraded, they can be lifted up and moved, leaving a heap of compost for use in the garden.
If you are in a hurry to obtain compost, use a rotating bin. Organic matter is placed in the bin, the lid is closed and the bin rotated about two or three times a day. The bin has bars inside that mix up the compost and speed decomposition. Once finished, the bin is tipped up and the compost collected in a barrow.
The best way of making compost is to create a couple of wooden frames, one will contain fresh compost and the other old compost that can be used. The compost heap needs to get hot in order to kill weed seeds and pests. The base of the frame should be open to the soil. It should not be concrete because the worms must be able to escape the heat generated by the activity of bacteria that are breaking down the waste.
Begin by making a layer of organic matter, about a third of the depth of the frame. Next add a layer of manure such as sheep droppings, to weigh down the organic matter. This will encourage the bacteria to grow. A second layer of chicken manure is also good. It is essential to saturate the heap with water.
Start layering again with more organic matter containing straw and kitchen and garden wastes, you can even add cotton clothes. Build up successive layers of organic matter topped with manure and watered down each time until you have reached the top. Deep saturation is important, so water until it runs out the bottom. Water the heap regularly thereafter. The heap will become extremely hot. This means that it is working.
You can tell when the compost is ready to use as there will be no recognisable lumps of organic matter and it will have a rich soil texture. Use the compost in the plant hole of seedlings and for conditioning the soil prior to planting. Avoid using it as a mulch, rather mulch over the top of it with straw or dig it into the soil.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Gaming computers
I used to enjoy going to computer swap meets on the weekends years ago. It was like a weekly ritual for me. You can find just about any kinds of computers and accessories you want and they are usually cheaper than in the stores. Well I haven’t been going for a while but I will need to pay them a visit this weekend. I’m looking at getting some gaming computers for the new lounge I’ve just open. That would bring in more younger customers I reckon.
Acid-loving Plants
There is a group of plants called the acid-lovers. The most beautiful of these are the azaleas, rhododendrons and camellias. These plants like soil that is acidic and do not like any kind of lime or alkaline soil.
Acid-loving plants do not tolerate clay soils as they easily become waterlogged. The result is leaf scorch, indicated by brown patches on the leaves and a wilted appearance.
Rhododendron ‘Pink pearl’ will grow both in full sun and in dappled shade. When planting out you do not need to tease the roots, which should be tight and compact. Ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the soil surface. These plants do not require a lot of fertiliser and excess can retard growth, so don’t put fertilisers into the planting hole.
How do you keep the soil acidic? Mulch around the plant with compost, old cow manure and blood and bone. You can also use half-decayed leaves or pine needles because they are highly acidic. Always keep the mulch free from the stem or it will go mouldy.
These plants are poor at obtaining iron and alkaline soil can induce iron deficiency which can be identified by a yellowing of the leaves. The reason why these plants love acid soils is because they can obtain more iron under these conditions. Iron can be supplemented in the form of cheated iron, bought as a yellow powder. Place a large spoonful into a watering can and water over the leaves and into the soil. This type of iron can bypass the alkalinity and be absorbed readily by the plant, however it is only a temporary solution and long-term remediation of the soil may be necessary.
Acid-loving plants do not tolerate clay soils as they easily become waterlogged. The result is leaf scorch, indicated by brown patches on the leaves and a wilted appearance.
Rhododendron ‘Pink pearl’ will grow both in full sun and in dappled shade. When planting out you do not need to tease the roots, which should be tight and compact. Ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the soil surface. These plants do not require a lot of fertiliser and excess can retard growth, so don’t put fertilisers into the planting hole.
How do you keep the soil acidic? Mulch around the plant with compost, old cow manure and blood and bone. You can also use half-decayed leaves or pine needles because they are highly acidic. Always keep the mulch free from the stem or it will go mouldy.
These plants are poor at obtaining iron and alkaline soil can induce iron deficiency which can be identified by a yellowing of the leaves. The reason why these plants love acid soils is because they can obtain more iron under these conditions. Iron can be supplemented in the form of cheated iron, bought as a yellow powder. Place a large spoonful into a watering can and water over the leaves and into the soil. This type of iron can bypass the alkalinity and be absorbed readily by the plant, however it is only a temporary solution and long-term remediation of the soil may be necessary.
ProFlowers Twitter feed
For most of you who knows me also know that I’m a keen gardener. I like growing all kinds of plants be them for food or just for their pretty flowers. However just because I have a garden doesn’t mean I can live without shopping for my daily greens or bouquets. I still buy my vegetables and flowers when I need them but ProFlowers Twitter feed helps me keep up with all the flowers I need.
Snail Control
Snails can be a real pest in the garden, especially if you have soft leaved plants or tender seedlings, which they love to eat.
There are lots of different ways of controlling snails. The most environmentally sound method is to put on some boots of a damp evening and go stomping as snails generally feed at night. Alternatively you can collect snails and slugs by hand and kill them by dropping them into soapy water. Many of us don’t have time for this so the next best thing to do is buy an environmentally friendly snail bait that won’t harm pets such as cats and dogs or the native wildlife.
Snails like to live on vertical surfaces in the heart of strappy leaved plants and in crevices. This makes targeting them easier. Simply put a few pellets into the heart of the plant out of the sight of other animals.
Another more organically sound method of snail control is to use organic sprays made from plants that will deter these pests. Quassia amara can be made into a spray that is applied to the soil to kill snails and slugs and can also be sprayed onto the leaves of trees affected by pear and cherry slugs. Sprays can also be made from wormwood, garlic and white cedar to make the leaves unpalatable to pests, but are not recommended on vegetables that are going to be eaten soon after.
A bowl of beer placed strategically in the garden can be effective against slugs and snails, which are attracted to it, crawl in and drown.
There are lots of different ways of controlling snails. The most environmentally sound method is to put on some boots of a damp evening and go stomping as snails generally feed at night. Alternatively you can collect snails and slugs by hand and kill them by dropping them into soapy water. Many of us don’t have time for this so the next best thing to do is buy an environmentally friendly snail bait that won’t harm pets such as cats and dogs or the native wildlife.
Snails like to live on vertical surfaces in the heart of strappy leaved plants and in crevices. This makes targeting them easier. Simply put a few pellets into the heart of the plant out of the sight of other animals.
Another more organically sound method of snail control is to use organic sprays made from plants that will deter these pests. Quassia amara can be made into a spray that is applied to the soil to kill snails and slugs and can also be sprayed onto the leaves of trees affected by pear and cherry slugs. Sprays can also be made from wormwood, garlic and white cedar to make the leaves unpalatable to pests, but are not recommended on vegetables that are going to be eaten soon after.
A bowl of beer placed strategically in the garden can be effective against slugs and snails, which are attracted to it, crawl in and drown.
Wednesday, October 05, 2011
CozyWinters.com electric mattress pad
Now that winter is just around the corner it is time to prepare our house for the chilly days and nights. I hate cold wintry nights so this year I’m going to get myself an electric-blanket, I found one that I like at CozyWinters.com electric mattress pad. I think this will keep me all warm and snugly so I won’t be needing my hubby anymore! LOL just kidding, he’s a keeper.
Organic Principles
Organic fruit and vegetable gardens contain no disruptive chemicals or artificial fertilisers. The purely organic soil supports a host of important micro and macro-organisms such as worms that are all doing their bit to aerate, condition and fertilise. Good soil is balanced and seething with life, but how do you fertilise organic plants? The answer is don’t feed the plants, feed the soil so the plants can take up nutrients as they require them. Home-made compost is the gentlest and best of all the fertilisers. Other types such as mushroom compost are also excellent for enriching and conditioning the soil. You can also use any type of well-rotted animal manure. Manure is composed primarily of organic matter but also has some vital nutrients. Blood and bone is fantastic because it is slow release and full of valuable minerals. First add manure to the soil surface, spread it out and cover it with compost. The more variety you add the better, so sprinkle some blood and bone on top, lightly mix it in to the other materials and cover it all with straw to speed up decomposition. This treatment acts like a mini-compost heap releasing nutrients slowly into the soil and keeping in moisture at the same time. Nothing goes to waste in an organic garden because all the debris is recycled back into the soil via compost.
Organic gardens control pests and diseases in a number of ways. A good method is to employ crop rotation, which means cycling plants to a new bed every year, such that they are never in the same bed for 2 years running. Companion planting is another good method because these plants grow well together and protect one another. A good example is planting carrots, black salsify and members of the onion family alongside one another. Their different smells, colours and shapes confuse and deter insects. The same is true for sweetcorn, pumpkins, cucumbers and squash. Organic gardens are not free of pests, in fact they are full of them, but because no chemicals have been used, they are also full of predators which control pest numbers. Organic gardeners avoid using sprays by removing pest-infected fruit or shoots. For example, by removing young apples that were infected with coddling moth, the number of moths was lower the next year and fruit yield much greater.
There are many different types of organic gardens, not just fruit and vegetable but ornamentals as well. The plants in organic ornamental gardens have been nourished with rich organic matter and are therefore vigorous and healthy because they are strong enough to cope with and deter pests. Remember that organic gardening is not always easy or pretty, pests often nibble things but you will be better off for it in the long run. For example, Pete shows us a cabbage whose outer leaves have been chewed, but inside is a perfect cabbage that is very healthy because it has never been sprayed.
Organic gardens control pests and diseases in a number of ways. A good method is to employ crop rotation, which means cycling plants to a new bed every year, such that they are never in the same bed for 2 years running. Companion planting is another good method because these plants grow well together and protect one another. A good example is planting carrots, black salsify and members of the onion family alongside one another. Their different smells, colours and shapes confuse and deter insects. The same is true for sweetcorn, pumpkins, cucumbers and squash. Organic gardens are not free of pests, in fact they are full of them, but because no chemicals have been used, they are also full of predators which control pest numbers. Organic gardeners avoid using sprays by removing pest-infected fruit or shoots. For example, by removing young apples that were infected with coddling moth, the number of moths was lower the next year and fruit yield much greater.
There are many different types of organic gardens, not just fruit and vegetable but ornamentals as well. The plants in organic ornamental gardens have been nourished with rich organic matter and are therefore vigorous and healthy because they are strong enough to cope with and deter pests. Remember that organic gardening is not always easy or pretty, pests often nibble things but you will be better off for it in the long run. For example, Pete shows us a cabbage whose outer leaves have been chewed, but inside is a perfect cabbage that is very healthy because it has never been sprayed.
Friday, September 30, 2011
Network Architect Jobs
Graduating with a computer science degree I’m now looking for Network Architect Jobs preferably in my local areas. However I may go a bit further if the remuneration is good, even to the extent of moving to a new city but I draw the line on going overseas. There’s no place better than working in my own country since we’re still quite good job wise compared with other countries.
Handwatering
Water restrictions often occur over most of Australia during the summer months and it sometimes becomes compulsory to turn off the automatic watering system and water our gardens by hand. It is a time to think about how we use this precious resource and adopt ways of watering that can substantially reduce the amount of water we waste.
Hand watering on a beautiful early morning or evening is a pleasurable experience that gives us the time to look more closely at our garden, the plants and the soil. We have more control over how the watering is done and can cater to the individual needs of different plants more successfully. Sometimes it is the only way to water plants deeply. Watering at these times helps to increase water penetration and minimise evaporation.
Potted plants under a verandah, eaves or awning must be regularly watered by hand and it is important to water the soil thoroughly all the way through. Check by feeling below the surface to make sure it has penetrated deeply. Soil can become hydrophobic if it is allowed to dry out too much and it is then difficult to wet again. Water will bead and flow over the surface of the soil and drain away without being of use at all to the plant. Wetting agents will have to be added to restore its water holding capacity. These can be bought in liquid or powder form and are applied to the surface of the soil.
Planters with a built-in reservoir at the bottom can save you time and water. Overflow can be prevented by checking the water level as the water drains into the base of the pot, and watering will be a lot less frequent.
Whether you are watering pots or plants in the ground it is important to water only the base of the plants. Keeping water off the foliage will reduce the chance of plants developing fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew. Pathogenic fungal spores will travel rapidly in water splash or soil run-off and infect otherwise healthy plants. Infrequent, deep watering will encourage root systems to penetrate the deeper soil layers and have access to more permanent water, as well as nutrients. A deeper root system stabilises plants, especially trees and large shrubs, making them less susceptible to wind, drought and insect stresses.
Plants require more water when in active growth and this may not necessarily be in the summer months. Observation of your own garden situation is critical in using water efficiently. The condition of the plants and the soil varies with the season; natural rainfall, temperature, wind and growth activity and these are conditions that cannot be taken into consideration with an automated watering system. Hand watering gives you the time to observe the changing relationship of all the elements that influence your garden and at the same time gives you the time to enjoy the plants and their smells.
Hand watering on a beautiful early morning or evening is a pleasurable experience that gives us the time to look more closely at our garden, the plants and the soil. We have more control over how the watering is done and can cater to the individual needs of different plants more successfully. Sometimes it is the only way to water plants deeply. Watering at these times helps to increase water penetration and minimise evaporation.
Potted plants under a verandah, eaves or awning must be regularly watered by hand and it is important to water the soil thoroughly all the way through. Check by feeling below the surface to make sure it has penetrated deeply. Soil can become hydrophobic if it is allowed to dry out too much and it is then difficult to wet again. Water will bead and flow over the surface of the soil and drain away without being of use at all to the plant. Wetting agents will have to be added to restore its water holding capacity. These can be bought in liquid or powder form and are applied to the surface of the soil.
Planters with a built-in reservoir at the bottom can save you time and water. Overflow can be prevented by checking the water level as the water drains into the base of the pot, and watering will be a lot less frequent.
Whether you are watering pots or plants in the ground it is important to water only the base of the plants. Keeping water off the foliage will reduce the chance of plants developing fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew. Pathogenic fungal spores will travel rapidly in water splash or soil run-off and infect otherwise healthy plants. Infrequent, deep watering will encourage root systems to penetrate the deeper soil layers and have access to more permanent water, as well as nutrients. A deeper root system stabilises plants, especially trees and large shrubs, making them less susceptible to wind, drought and insect stresses.
Plants require more water when in active growth and this may not necessarily be in the summer months. Observation of your own garden situation is critical in using water efficiently. The condition of the plants and the soil varies with the season; natural rainfall, temperature, wind and growth activity and these are conditions that cannot be taken into consideration with an automated watering system. Hand watering gives you the time to observe the changing relationship of all the elements that influence your garden and at the same time gives you the time to enjoy the plants and their smells.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
Maternity clothes stores
I have the weekend all to myself; the missus is going shopping with her sister at some maternity clothes stores. Her sister is having a baby, not her so I get to do what ever I want this weekend. This is rare opportunity so I have to make the best of it. What should I do? Go to the game with the boys? Poker games with the boys? Get piss drunk with the boys? Sounds good but are they going to be free though? Looks like just me in front of the idiot box all weekend.
Pond Maintenance
Ponds require a little bit of work to keep them looking good. The ecosystem of a pond involves the interaction of many factors including water, gases, minerals, sunshine, plants and animals. If this delicate balance is disrupted, algae will spread and the water quality will deteriorate rapidly. The health of a pond is affected by its size and shape, acidity or alkalinity of the water, amount of surface exposed to the air and sun, the type of plants used and the presence of pond life. Algae can build up quickly in warm weather and look very unsightly. Healthy ponds need oxygen, which is provided by oxygenating aquatic plants that also absorb carbon dioxide. Some good pond plants include Bacopa caroliniana, which produces foliage that floats on the water surface where it captures light for photosynthesis. It will also produce delicate mauve flowers. Not all plants float such as the submerged hornwort, Ceratophyllum demersum which is useful for oxygenation and providing a place for fish to hide. The Eel Grass, Valisneria gigantia is another lovely pond plant with its strappy leaves.
Water hygiene is an important part of pond maintenance. The appropriate way to improve water quality is through plant selection and appropriate maintenance techniques. Nursery manager, Tony Debincat uses a safe way of removing bacteria and excess algae. He adds a very small amount of Condy’s crystals to the water, which changes the colour to a reddish tint that lasts for around 2 days before clearing. This treatment doesn’t harm fish or plants if used in an extremely low concentration similar to very weak tea. In spring it may be necessary to clean out the pond and carry out any repair work. In summer, check water level and quality, check for algal growth, clean out the pump and filter and check for dead, diseased or damaged plants. In autumn remove any leaf letter and cut back any excessive plant growth.
Waterlilies play multiple roles in a water garden. Their large leaves create shade, produce oxygen, provide a hiding place for fish and produce large beautiful flowers. The tropical waterlilies can be distinguished from the hardier types that grow almost everywhere from the flower stalks, which are above the water. The flower buds and stalks are edible and can be used in salads, just peel off the ‘skin’ from the stalk before eating. The margins of ponds are usually planted with bog plants that are very important because they filter out any unwanted materials. Some good marginal plants include the flowering Woolly Frogsmouth, Philydrum lanuginosum and canna species like Canna indica. There are also some beautiful foliage plants such as Lepironia articulata. If you want advice or help choosing the right plants go to a specialist nursery and remember not to let your pond go, they do need some maintenance.
Water hygiene is an important part of pond maintenance. The appropriate way to improve water quality is through plant selection and appropriate maintenance techniques. Nursery manager, Tony Debincat uses a safe way of removing bacteria and excess algae. He adds a very small amount of Condy’s crystals to the water, which changes the colour to a reddish tint that lasts for around 2 days before clearing. This treatment doesn’t harm fish or plants if used in an extremely low concentration similar to very weak tea. In spring it may be necessary to clean out the pond and carry out any repair work. In summer, check water level and quality, check for algal growth, clean out the pump and filter and check for dead, diseased or damaged plants. In autumn remove any leaf letter and cut back any excessive plant growth.
Waterlilies play multiple roles in a water garden. Their large leaves create shade, produce oxygen, provide a hiding place for fish and produce large beautiful flowers. The tropical waterlilies can be distinguished from the hardier types that grow almost everywhere from the flower stalks, which are above the water. The flower buds and stalks are edible and can be used in salads, just peel off the ‘skin’ from the stalk before eating. The margins of ponds are usually planted with bog plants that are very important because they filter out any unwanted materials. Some good marginal plants include the flowering Woolly Frogsmouth, Philydrum lanuginosum and canna species like Canna indica. There are also some beautiful foliage plants such as Lepironia articulata. If you want advice or help choosing the right plants go to a specialist nursery and remember not to let your pond go, they do need some maintenance.
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