Tuesday, May 01, 2012
Acanthaceae
There are over 250 genera in this large family of vines, shrubs and perennials, and they occur all around the globe in warm and frost-free climates. It is the floral parts that unite a plant family and Yellow Candles Pachystachys lutea, a South American member of the family, displays these characteristics well. The flowers are often clustered in pyramidal spikes and the petals are fused to form floral tubes, with the floral bracts often outshining and outlasting the flowers.
Another point of distinction is the naturally patterned foliage. The Zebra Plant Aphelandra squarrosa is often sold as freshly rooted cuttings for use as houseplants, but planted outside in the right conditions these plants can achieve impressive proportions. They all have some common cultural requirements. They all enjoy moist well-drained soils, surface mulch in summer, morning sunshine and shelter from gales. Firespike Odontonema callistachyum loves hot, humid weather and can be trained as a groundcover or a wall shrub. In warm temperate climates the plant produces one large display of summer flowers whereas in the tropics it flowers continuously.
A general technique for pruning Acanthaceae is to lightly clip them to shape after flowering, if they do stop flowering. The clumps of contrasting foliage of two Graptophyllum cultivars like ones with yellow and a bronze leaves planted together, highlights the differences between them. Their slender upright habit also makes them very suitable for hedging, but they need all day sunshine to look their best.
Sunday, April 29, 2012
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Pineapples
Monday, April 23, 2012
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Aquarium Plants
Fish can be chosen for different purposes and to live at different levels in the tank. Types of fish include bottom-dwellers, suckers, schoolers and individuals, where the variety of fish work together to create a living ecosystem within the confines of the tank. Aquarium plants are a necessary part of the underwater landscape with a variety of plants used for different purposes that contributes to the health and wellbeing of the fish. Microsorum ‘Windelov’ is a small clumping plant that can be grown from pieces that shoot from the main plant, and can be planted to create an expanse of clumps spreading across the bottom of the tank. The fish use the plants to hide in, to rummage through and dart in and out of, which keeps them active and healthy. Some of the most dramatic plants in the tank have attractive foliage like the waterlilies, which have large russet or bright green leaves, or the Aponogeton, which is a vertical plant with attractive crested leaves. Cryptocoryne is a common low-growing plant that effectively spreads across the bottom of the tank in time to create a grassy blanket. Amazon Sword Echinodorum amazonicus is a plant with long pointed leaves growing from a central crown. It can vary in size, seasonally dying back but rejuvenating with a new vigour when it regrows.
Plants are also chosen for the type of fish that inhabit the tank. Some fish like to eat plants, while others suck the leaves, and some rummage through the foliage and around the roots. It is important to know the tendencies of particular fish before purchasing them so that equilibrium can be maintained between the growth of plants and the habits of the fish.
Monday, April 16, 2012
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Aquarium Plants
Fish can be chosen for different purposes and to live at different levels in the tank. Types of fish include bottom-dwellers, suckers, schoolers and individuals, where the variety of fish work together to create a living ecosystem within the confines of the tank. Aquarium plants are a necessary part of the underwater landscape with a variety of plants used for different purposes that contributes to the health and wellbeing of the fish. Microsorum ‘Windelov’ is a small clumping plant that can be grown from pieces that shoot from the main plant, and can be planted to create an expanse of clumps spreading across the bottom of the tank. The fish use the plants to hide in, to rummage through and dart in and out of, which keeps them active and healthy. Some of the most dramatic plants in the tank have attractive foliage like the waterlilies, which have large russet or bright green leaves, or the Aponogeton, which is a vertical plant with attractive crested leaves. Cryptocoryne is a common low-growing plant that effectively spreads across the bottom of the tank in time to create a grassy blanket. Amazon Sword Echinodorum amazonicus is a plant with long pointed leaves growing from a central crown. It can vary in size, seasonally dying back but rejuvenating with a new vigour when it regrows.
Plants are also chosen for the type of fish that inhabit the tank. Some fish like to eat plants, while others suck the leaves, and some rummage through the foliage and around the roots. It is important to know the tendencies of particular fish before purchasing them so that equilibrium can be maintained between the growth of plants and the habits of the fish.
The best source of aquarium plants is from an aquarist shop, which will have the widest range of plants, the best plant support products and the best horticultural advice. Communal tropical fish are probably the easiest to keep and have an almost unlimited variety of plants that can be grown with them. Goldfish have a tendency to eat particular plants so should be avoided. Tropical plants need warm water and will require a heater, but all live aquatic plants, whether from warm tropical water or cool temperate water will require a light to help them to grow properly.
Water Wisteria has chrysanthemum-like foliage and pretty blue flowers, but Hygrophila ‘Rosea’ has larger leaves with decorative marbled foliage. Copperleaf Alternanthera reinekii is a popular plant because of its vibrant burgundy-pink foliage. Tall slender stem plants add a vertical accent to underwater landscapes, and the simple foliage of Vallisneria makes a good background plant. Fertilisers that are specifically designed for aquarium plants must be used. A good depth of gravel is also necessary to give roots adequate room to give optimum growth of plants. Plants may need to be moved to different locations within the tank environment to find their ideal growing conditions. The amount of light and the temperature of the water will influence their growth. Most fish will eat the same leafy greens that we eat. If they are blanched to make them softer and easier to eat and secured down in the tank with a rock, then it is likely that the fish will refrain from eating plants in the tank.
It is important to be diligent about changing the water in the tank at least once a week. It is also advisable to have a filtration system that is designed for a much larger aquarium, because it will be much more efficient at keeping a smaller volume of water in pristine condition.
Ensuring that each additional plant and fish is well established and happy in its new environment before adding a new variety will pave the way for a successful aquarium that will evolve over time.
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Invasive Trees
Trees planted near buildings need to be chosen carefully. A beautiful tree like a fig, if planted in a bed that is too narrow to accommodate its massive roots, will ultimately lift up any pathways and damage the foundations of any nearby wall in its efforts to find room to grow. Both ornamental figs and rubber trees have large anchoring roots and needs to be given plenty of room to grow.
Root barriers are a good way of controlling young trees when they are established in the ground. The principle employed is that the barriers move the roots vertically rather than horizontally where they can cause excessive damage. Another method to control invasive tree roots on mature trees is by digging a trench around the roots and placing a double layer of shade cloth around the outside of the trench. As the new roots begin to grow they will be forced down vertically.
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Screening Plants
Even in the smallest of spaces there is room for fruit trees. The technique of espalier is perfect for narrow places. In sunny situations it can be used very effectively to train and grow fruit, like citrus and apples, above fences or as dividers between spaces.
Any hedge or screening plant along a boundary will need to be regularly trimmed, perhaps several times throughout the growing season. Electrical trimmers or no-powered hedge trimmers are very fast and convenient, but can be very dangerous if the electrical chords are severed in the process. It is essential to have a cut-out safety device installed in the power board. A safer alternative is a petrol-powered trimmer. Blades should be treated immediately after use with a protective film to prevent damage and maintain them in good condition.
Tuesday, March 27, 2012
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Cannas
Dynamic colours are popular at the moment and like their popularity in the 1930s cannas are now coming back into favour. Canna indica is a listed environmental weed in some states, so this species should not be planted. The hybrids and cultivars do not get out of control in the garden, and are a very hardy perennial with some of the most dynamic colours that you will ever see.
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Grevilleas
Grevillea ‘Firesprite’ is a popular hardy cultivar that has been in the marketplace for many years. Merv Hodge has a seedling of G. ‘Firesprite’ in his garden that has new characteristics worthy of a new cultivar, which will make it an excellent horticultural plant when it comes onto the market. Like all grevilleas it likes good drainage and it would flourish.
The delicate pink flowers of Grevillea sericea are at their peak in spring, but is an excellent plant to have in the garden because it will have spot flowering throughout the year. This species grows naturally on sandstone and does best in sandy soils.
Grevillea hybrid Grevillea ‘Simply Sarah’ needs very good drainage, and to grow this cultivar successfully garden beds will need to be raised at least 30cm to allow any excess water to drain away if the soil is not naturally well drained. It grows to over 1.5m but should, like all grevilleas, be pruned back to prevent it from becoming straggly. Pruning encourages new growth to thicken up the bush.
Insect pests are not usually a major problem with grevilleas. Because they attract lots of birds that feed on the nectar, they also feed on tiny insects and other pests as well.
Grevillea ‘Pink Midget’ is as tough as any plant that you will find, and will withstand drought conditions. If this ground hugging grevillea is given extra water is will flower even more prolifically.
Thursday, March 15, 2012
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Soil Conditioners
How do you test your soil for alkalinity and acidity? Use a soil testing kit to determine the alkalinity of the soil. Take a sample of soil and add the indicator supplied in the kit. The colour that you see can be matched against a chart to determine the soil pH.
Buy ground limestone and use it quite generously, about a handful per square metre of soil. Another way to sweeten the soil is with dolomite, which contains calcium and magnesium. Dolomite is a very good medium for sweetening the soil, but it takes some time to do so.
If you are in a hurry to reduce the acidity of the soil, use builders lime or hydrated lime. This lime is prepared by heating limestone and cooling it, then slaking and grinding it. The powder is much finer than other limes. Spread the lime on the surface at about the same rate as before. Do not dig it into the soil, the rain will take it in for you. This lime is very readily available to plants, but it you will need replenish it more than other limes.
Another source of calcium used in the garden is gypsum (calcium sulphate). It is like a plaster of paris and has a brown colouration. Gypsum doesn’t alter the pH of the soil, and in very alkaline clay soil, will make the soil slightly more acidic. Rather, gypsum is used to help break up clay soil.
Seaweed concentrate is an excellent soil conditioner. It contains alginates and thus improves the soil structure. Use seaweed concentrate in a very dilute form, no more than a couple of tablespoons in a full watering can. Remember it is not a fertiliser but it does contain lots of trace elements. You can use this solution to water seeds which will absorb all the trace elements.
You can make a spray of seaweed concentrate plus a teaspoon of the trace elements zinc sulphate, iron chelate, magnesium nitrate and boron. Spray it on to the leaves and stems where it will be absorbed by the plant. The liquid will also drip on to the soil where it will improve the soil structure.
Wear gloves when handling lime powders and spraying if it irritates you and remember, of all our natural resources, soil is one of the most important and we must look after it.
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Clay soil
Is there anything good about clay soils? They are full of nutrients, but the plants can’t access them. It is possible to treat clay soils and improve the soil quality, freeing up nutrients for plants. Coir and cocoa peat are quite expensive and can be substituted with compost, which can be made at home very cheaply.
When planting in treated clay soils, make a slight mound in which to grow the plant. Peter demonstrates how clay-intolerant plants such as azaleas and rhododendrons can now thrive in the treated nutrient richsoil. By the time the plant develops roots that are long enough to penetrate below the treated layer, the plant will be big enough to cope with the clay soil.
Saturday, March 03, 2012
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Sunflowers
Sunflowers are native to South and Central America and are always a great way to introduce children to the fun of gardening. Competitions to see who can grow the tallest sunflower are traditional in some families and inspire friendly rivalry. The tallest sunflower that Melissa grew when she was a child was 4.1 metres. The world record for the tallest sunflower stands at 7.76 metres tall.
Sunflowers are annuals that can be sown where they are to flower, ensuring that they are planted in a fertile, well-drained, sunny position in the garden. The seeds can be sown in spring or early summer when the soil is beginning to warm up, and it is important to sow them into beds that are well prepared with organic matter and that are kept weed free. Smooth over the top of the soil lightly to create a good surface for sowing the seeds. As a general rule seeds can be sown to double the depth of the seed and cover with soil.
It is important to water the seeds regularly and to keep the bed weed free. Water with a liquid fertiliser every 2 to 3 weeks to boost the height of the sunflowers.
Slugs, snails and birds are very fond of the young seedlings, so some protective measures may need to be taken during the early growing weeks.
Sunday, February 26, 2012
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Grevilleas
Grevillea ‘Firesprite’ is a popular hardy cultivar that has been in the marketplace for many years. Merv Hodge has a seedling of G. ‘Firesprite’ in his garden that has new characteristics worthy of a new cultivar, which will make it an excellent horticultural plant when it comes onto the market. Like all grevilleas it likes good drainage and it would flourish.
The delicate pink flowers of Grevillea sericea are at their peak in spring, but is an excellent plant to have in the garden because it will have spot flowering throughout the year. This species grows naturally on sandstone and does best in sandy soils.
Grevillea hybrid Grevillea ‘Simply Sarah’ needs very good drainage, and to grow this cultivar successfully garden beds will need to be raised at least 30cm to allow any excess water to drain away if the soil is not naturally well drained. It grows to over 1.5m but should, like all grevilleas, be pruned back to prevent it from becoming straggly. Pruning encourages new growth to thicken up the bush.
Insect pests are not usually a major problem with grevilleas. Because they attract lots of birds that feed on the nectar, they also feed on tiny insects and other pests as well.
Grevillea ‘Pink Midget’ is as tough as any plant that you will find, and will withstand drought conditions. If this ground hugging grevillea is given extra water is will flower even more prolifically.
Tuesday, January 24, 2012
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Strawberries
Strawberries are grown from the sub Polar Regions to the tropics, and belong to the Rosaceae family, which also includes roses, plums, apricots and apples. Although all the flowers are similar the fruit of the strawberry is quite different. The main difference is that the seeds are on the outside of the fruit, rather than being encased in flesh in the middle of the fruit. When it is the middle of winter in the south of Australia, it is harvest time in the north in Queensland.
Large sized strawberries are renowned for having no flavour. These varieties have now been replaced with new cultivars that have all the desirable qualities that are demanded of a strawberry - large fruit that is full of flavour are the two most important qualities that home gardeners and commercial growers are looking for. As well they want cultivars where the fruit is abundant and easy to find on the plant. Strawberry ‘Redlands Joy’ has red flesh all the way through to the middle, and is beautiful and sweet to taste. For those who live on the north coast the varieties ‘Kabarla’ and ‘Adina’ will grow well, while in the Sydney region ‘Sweetheart’, ‘Selekta’ and ‘Torrey’ are best. ‘Kunowase’ and ‘Cambridge Rival’ are two good cultivars that grow well in Victoria and Tasmania. ‘Alinta’ is an excellent, highly recommended variety for southern gardens.
To grow strawberries well soil preparation is essential. This requires copious amounts of a good organic fertiliser that has high levels of nitrogen, phosphorous and potash dug in well. Plant the runners into raised beds 30 cm apart. As soon as the plants start to flower, spray them with high potash liquid fertiliser, which will help the fruit to develop a beautiful sweet flavour. By March in the following year these plants will have developed new runners. In warmer climates like Queensland the plants should be treated as an annual, as the plants get tired more quickly. The old plants should be taken out and new runners replanted.
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Milk Fungicide
University of Adelaide research is exploring its potency. Grape vines have been the main crop that Peter Crisp used as part of his trials during a three-year research project, but he has also used milk spray on roses, zucchinis and tomatoes where it has been very successful in combating powdery mildew. A dilution anywhere between 1:5 and 1:10 milk to water is adequate, but if it is much stronger than that it can cause problems like sooty mould. Low fat milk is less effective than full cream milk, but the difference is not really significant. There are various compounds that are active in milk including the fats. The natural antibiotics present in milk, as well as the production of other agents during exposure to sunlight both act to reduce fungal infection.
For it to work effectively it must be used regularly at seven to 10 days intervals, or every fortnight if it is hot. The most important thing is to get a good even coverage over all of the leaves. One of the great advantages of milk fungicide is that you don’t need any protective gear for spraying.
Thursday, January 19, 2012
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Celery
Close relatives, Celeriac Apium graveolens var. rapaceum is grown for its celery-flavoured root, while Florence Fennel Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum is grown for its aniseed-flavoured bulb.
Common fennel has a similar growth habit to celery. The stems are buried deep within the above ground parts of the plant, being hidden by the fleshy leaf petioles upon which the feathery foliage is borne.
Celery has a very shallow root system, and needs frequent watering because the roots are concentrated in the top few centimetres of soil and so they will dry out quickly.
What we commonly call the stem of the celery plant, the part that we eat, is actually the petiole from which the leaves grow. If you pull celery apart, it can be observed that the stem is in the centre of the plant near the roots at the base of the plant. It will continue to grow to form a stem and flowers, which will set seed. It is too tough to eat at this stage.
It is possible to grow celery in almost any soil type, but it prefers friable loamy soil. It will grow in sand but much more nutrition and water will be required. Celery prefers to grow in the mid seasons of spring and autumn. It does not like the hot temperatures of summer or the very cold ones of winter. During the summer during its most rapid growing time, it takes about 10 to 12 weeks to reach maturity, and during the winter it takes about 18 weeks to reach maturity from transplanting into the field. It needs two or three applications of nitrogen and potassium during the life of the crop. Celery puts on 70% of its growth in the last 30% of its life.
Planting celery in blocks of plants encourages the stems to grow longer, fleshier and slightly lighter making them less bitter. If you are selecting celery in the supermarket, the bunch should be a good bright, glossy green and should be very turgid. The stems should be very firm in your hand, which will ensure that it will be crisp and have the best flavour.
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Asian Vegetables
Many of these plants have strong and distinctive flavours and are often quick growing, tender and have a variety of parts of the plant that can be used. Like many ingredients in Asian cuisine, nothing is wasted. Many of the plants have parts (leaves, flower heads) that can be periodically plucked without disturbing the whole plant. Some of these varieties are ready to harvest in as little as six weeks from sowing and many can be cut and a used throughout the growing season
Some varieties of Asian herbs and vegetables are becoming available in punnets, but they are very easy to grow from seed. Most varieties don’t like to be transplanted so it is a good idea to sow that seed directly. They need to be grown in areas of at least six hours of direct sunlight. In cooler areas most varieties can be planted in autumn or spring once any risk of frost has disappeared. In tropical areas Asian vegetables are a winter crop, so the seed is sown in autumn. When thinning out the seedlings don't throw them away as they are great used in soups and stir-frys. Coriander it is best grown in the shade as it goes to seed more quickly in full sun.
Thursday, December 29, 2011
Everett Gaskins Hancock
Lemons, Limes & Cumquats
It is the lemons, limes and cumquats that are most often grown. Lemons are the most popular citrus that is grown in home gardens from the tropical regions to cold areas. The Lisbon Lemon Citrus limon ‘Lisbon’ is a favourite cultivar in a Mediterranean climate for alkaline soils. They are mostly grafted onto the rootstock of a rough lemon, and will give three crops a year, with only a short gap in January/February where the tree won’t have any lemons at all. The blossoms have a very strong fragrance and will frequently be flowering and fruiting at the same time. This variety can’t always be grown in all areas. Meyer Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Meyer’ is easier to grow in the cooler regions and Eureka Lemon Citrus Limon ‘Eureka’ is a better variety for humid areas. Good drainage is essential no matter what region a lemon is grown. Growing them in a raised bed or on a slope can improve an otherwise poorly drained area. After 10 or 15 year the tree may be too high to pick the fruit comfortably, so it is a good practice to keep them pruned to a height where the top of the tree is easy to reach. A Variegated Lisbon Lemon has ornamental foliage and smaller fruit that is not quite as prolific.
The Caffre Lime Citrus hystrix has become the most popular lime in Australia over the last couple of years. It is grown exclusively for the leaf, which is used as flavouring in Thai cooking. The fruits are extremely sour and not edible, but the plant makes an excellent container plant. They are very easy to grow if they are kept trimmed and are fed twice a year in spring and summer with a slow-release fertiliser. The West Indian Lime Citrus aurantifolia is smaller than the Tahitian Lime. It has a fruit with seeds but it has the best lime flavour and is widely grown and consumed in the tropics, whereas the Tahitian lime has smaller, thin-skinned seedless, very juicy fruit. The West Indian Lime is grown here at the edge of its geographical tolerance, so it is grown on a compatible rootstock, which is rough lemon. The Rangpur Lime Citrus x limonia has a large juicy fruit, almost orange with green seeds. This fruit has an interesting aftertaste.
Nagami Cumquat Fortunella margarita can be eaten whole, including the skin, unlike the Calamondin Citrus madurensis, which is incredibly sour and not one that can be eaten fresh. Chinotto Citrus myrtifolia is one of the most ornamental species that has pendulous branches with very glossy leaves, with fruit that turns bright orange when ripe, but also with fruit too sour to be eaten fresh. These are all best grown in a warm protected area. For a colder climate the Limequat Citrus aurantifolia x Fortunella margarita is an ideal hybrid with delicious fruit.
All of these varieties can be grown in containers, but should be given adequate amounts of fertiliser and they will provide tasty fruit as well as being a beautiful decorative feature.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
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Seeds vs Seedlings
Seeds vary in size from large ones like avocado and some beans, to the very minute seeds of lettuces and pansies. Small seeds must be placed on the surface of the seed-raising mix because if they are covered too thickly they will not germinate. Other seeds like sweet corn are planted at twice the depth of the thickness of the seed itself, and that is the basic rule to follow with all seeds.
When buying seed-raising mix make sure that it has been especially formulated for the purpose, with not too much air-filled porosity and the correct level of moisture-holding capacity. The surface should be levelled and firmed with a flat piece of wood or similar object, in preparation for sowing.
Seeds can be planted directly in the garden bed, or in seed-raising mix to plant the seedlings in the garden at a later time. If a small amount of Epsom salts is added to water, when applied to the soil the magnesium in it will help the plant to activate the enzymes that breaks down the food supply in the seed. A light misting is adequate. Too much water will rot the seeds. A covering of perlite will absorb moisture as well as provide an insulating layer and aid in germination.
There are several options when planting seeds in the ground. Some seed companies are supplying a length of tape that is impregnated with seed such as radish that is evenly spaced. The tape is laid out in a straight line as a row, and the seeds will germinate at regular intervals.
Many gardeners are also interested in heirloom and heritage seeds. Some are available from nurseries and garden centres supply a variety of these, but to get open pollinated varieties you may need to contact an organic growers group to get home-saved seed, or contact a seed savers network.
If you grow a lot of F1 hybrids, the chances are that the seeds will not be viable, so new seeds will have to be purchased otherwise seedlings can be used. Although seedlings cost a little bit more they save a lot of time. It generally takes 10 to 14 days for seedlings to germinate and come through the ground, and then another 2 to 3 weeks for them to develop some size as young plants. The germination rate of parsley is so poor that it is better to leave it to someone else’s propagating skills. Begonias also have a poor germination rate as well as the seeds being very expensive.
When buying seedlings, you are often confronted with a choice of very small plants or tall, leggy ones. The temptation is to buy the big ones thinking that they will be better, but this is not the case. The small seedlings will easily outgrow the larger ones, as well as being much stronger plants.
When planting seedlings into the garden care must be taken not to crush the stems, as this is the route of transportation of nutrients to the plant. Hold the plants by the leaves and ease them out so that you don’t damage the root system. After planting them in the ground, water them in with a seaweed extract, because the vitamin B1 will help the seedlings overcome transplant shock.
Seeds are cheaper but seedlings are quicker, so it is just a matter of personal choice.
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Increase signal
Asian herbs and vegetables
Some Asian vegetables to grow are: Pak Choi and Bok Choi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese White Cabbage), Tatsoi Brassica rapa Chinensis (Chinese Flat Cabbage), Kintsai Apium graveolens (Chinese celery), Mizuna & Mibuna Brassica rapa Japonica (Japanese salad greens, Garlic chives Alllium tuberosum, Coriander Coriandrum sativum, Garland Chrysanthemum Chrysanthemum coronarium var. spatiosum.
Friday, November 18, 2011
Roadside assistance plan
Potting mixtures
You can make your own potting soil. Start with garden soil, add coarse river sand to create a free-draining soil and coca fibre to retain some of the water. These components should be in a ratio of one third of each. This soil won’t go hard and the roots can penetrate it easily.
The soil used for raising seeds is different. Seedling raising mixes are pasteurised to remove all the organisms such as harmful bacteria and fungi. This is different to sterilisation which kills all living organisms in the soil.
Remember when handling potting and seed-raising mixes be careful as it may cause irritations or respiratory problems especially if you have allergies, or are susceptible.
Wednesday, November 09, 2011
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Fruit Tree Planting
Inspect the roots and cut off any damaged ones. Immediately, place the plant in a bucket of water containing a small amount of seaweed concentrate to keep the roots moist and supply the plant with minerals.
You will need a wooden stake to provide the tree with support until it becomes established. Dig a wide hole. This is important because you do not want the roots to be bent. Once dug, take the plant and test the hole for depth and width. Position the plant so that the roots are just below the soil surface. If the hole is too deep fill it in a little.
Once the hole is the correct dimensions, position the tree and tie it loosely to the stake. Then begin backfilling around the roots with a mixture of mushroom compost, soil and peat to hold in the moisture. Make sure that there are no air pockets by gently shaking the stem so that the soil filters down thought the roots. Then fill in the rest and secure the plant to a stake.
After planting you must restore the balance between the shoot system and the root system by pruning the stems so that they are in proportion to the roots. The way you prune will depend on the shape of the tree that you want. If you want the tree to grow into a vase shape, then cut out the main stem and the smaller branches will fan out. Alternatively you can have a christmas tree shape with a dominant stem. To achieve this, prune the lateral shoots back at a bud that is pointing upwards. Next remove all the leaders bar one so that you have a single dominant stem. This leader can be tipped later on when necessary. Lastly, mulch around the tree, keeping it away from the trunk. This will reduce weed growth.
Monday, October 31, 2011
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Hanging gardens
Finding the right basket for the purpose and plants is the first step. There are a multitude of different baskets. The two basic types are wire ones made from galvanised steel or iron and plastic ones with attached drip trays that are excellent for indoors. You can water baskets with drip trays quite a lot without worrying about over-watering, as long as the drip tray isn’t full. They are also useful because they can be watered directly into the drip tray.
The wire ones are relatively cheap and cost costs around $10. These baskets need to be lined in order to hold soil. You can buy liners or make your own out of shade cloth cut to size and pushed into the basket. To remove the folds, make slits in the cloth at intervals. The cloth will then overlap neatly in the basket. Use about 3-4 layers of cloth. Half fill the basket with potting soil and trim any edges of cloth that hang over. Hanging baskets can get very heavy, so it is advisable to hang them up while planting.
Add some cocoapeat or coir to the soil because this acts as a moisture reservoir which is important for plants in pots. Ferns make excellent foliage hanging baskets. Peter chooses a variety of ferns that can all be planted in the same pot and whose foliage complements one another. When planting ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the level of the rim. Place the first plant in the centre of the basket, then gently fill in all the spaces around it with other plants. Peter selects about seven different fern species including a forest brake fern, variegated brake fern, two species of maidenhair, a button fern and two species of pilea, P. mollis and P. nummularifolia (Creeping Charlie) which is excellent for the edges as it weeps over the side. This ability to grow numerous species in the one pot is the great advantage of basket gardening.
Backfill, all the spaces between the plants by hand with moist but not too wet potting soil. It should still be able to flow into the crevices. Push the soil in lightly and finish by watering thoroughly to allow the potting soil to settle down.
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Composting
There are different kinds of compost heaps. The smaller lidded bins are problematic in that they do not reach high temperatures, thus the waste takes a long time to degrade and weed seeds and pests are not killed. However, they are useful for small gardens, produce good compost and are full of worms. When the matter in them has degraded, they can be lifted up and moved, leaving a heap of compost for use in the garden.
If you are in a hurry to obtain compost, use a rotating bin. Organic matter is placed in the bin, the lid is closed and the bin rotated about two or three times a day. The bin has bars inside that mix up the compost and speed decomposition. Once finished, the bin is tipped up and the compost collected in a barrow.
The best way of making compost is to create a couple of wooden frames, one will contain fresh compost and the other old compost that can be used. The compost heap needs to get hot in order to kill weed seeds and pests. The base of the frame should be open to the soil. It should not be concrete because the worms must be able to escape the heat generated by the activity of bacteria that are breaking down the waste.
Begin by making a layer of organic matter, about a third of the depth of the frame. Next add a layer of manure such as sheep droppings, to weigh down the organic matter. This will encourage the bacteria to grow. A second layer of chicken manure is also good. It is essential to saturate the heap with water.
Start layering again with more organic matter containing straw and kitchen and garden wastes, you can even add cotton clothes. Build up successive layers of organic matter topped with manure and watered down each time until you have reached the top. Deep saturation is important, so water until it runs out the bottom. Water the heap regularly thereafter. The heap will become extremely hot. This means that it is working.
You can tell when the compost is ready to use as there will be no recognisable lumps of organic matter and it will have a rich soil texture. Use the compost in the plant hole of seedlings and for conditioning the soil prior to planting. Avoid using it as a mulch, rather mulch over the top of it with straw or dig it into the soil.
Friday, October 14, 2011
Gaming computers
Acid-loving Plants
Acid-loving plants do not tolerate clay soils as they easily become waterlogged. The result is leaf scorch, indicated by brown patches on the leaves and a wilted appearance.
Rhododendron ‘Pink pearl’ will grow both in full sun and in dappled shade. When planting out you do not need to tease the roots, which should be tight and compact. Ensure that the top of the root ball is just below the soil surface. These plants do not require a lot of fertiliser and excess can retard growth, so don’t put fertilisers into the planting hole.
How do you keep the soil acidic? Mulch around the plant with compost, old cow manure and blood and bone. You can also use half-decayed leaves or pine needles because they are highly acidic. Always keep the mulch free from the stem or it will go mouldy.
These plants are poor at obtaining iron and alkaline soil can induce iron deficiency which can be identified by a yellowing of the leaves. The reason why these plants love acid soils is because they can obtain more iron under these conditions. Iron can be supplemented in the form of cheated iron, bought as a yellow powder. Place a large spoonful into a watering can and water over the leaves and into the soil. This type of iron can bypass the alkalinity and be absorbed readily by the plant, however it is only a temporary solution and long-term remediation of the soil may be necessary.
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Snail Control
There are lots of different ways of controlling snails. The most environmentally sound method is to put on some boots of a damp evening and go stomping as snails generally feed at night. Alternatively you can collect snails and slugs by hand and kill them by dropping them into soapy water. Many of us don’t have time for this so the next best thing to do is buy an environmentally friendly snail bait that won’t harm pets such as cats and dogs or the native wildlife.
Snails like to live on vertical surfaces in the heart of strappy leaved plants and in crevices. This makes targeting them easier. Simply put a few pellets into the heart of the plant out of the sight of other animals.
Another more organically sound method of snail control is to use organic sprays made from plants that will deter these pests. Quassia amara can be made into a spray that is applied to the soil to kill snails and slugs and can also be sprayed onto the leaves of trees affected by pear and cherry slugs. Sprays can also be made from wormwood, garlic and white cedar to make the leaves unpalatable to pests, but are not recommended on vegetables that are going to be eaten soon after.
A bowl of beer placed strategically in the garden can be effective against slugs and snails, which are attracted to it, crawl in and drown.
Wednesday, October 05, 2011
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Organic Principles
Organic gardens control pests and diseases in a number of ways. A good method is to employ crop rotation, which means cycling plants to a new bed every year, such that they are never in the same bed for 2 years running. Companion planting is another good method because these plants grow well together and protect one another. A good example is planting carrots, black salsify and members of the onion family alongside one another. Their different smells, colours and shapes confuse and deter insects. The same is true for sweetcorn, pumpkins, cucumbers and squash. Organic gardens are not free of pests, in fact they are full of them, but because no chemicals have been used, they are also full of predators which control pest numbers. Organic gardeners avoid using sprays by removing pest-infected fruit or shoots. For example, by removing young apples that were infected with coddling moth, the number of moths was lower the next year and fruit yield much greater.
There are many different types of organic gardens, not just fruit and vegetable but ornamentals as well. The plants in organic ornamental gardens have been nourished with rich organic matter and are therefore vigorous and healthy because they are strong enough to cope with and deter pests. Remember that organic gardening is not always easy or pretty, pests often nibble things but you will be better off for it in the long run. For example, Pete shows us a cabbage whose outer leaves have been chewed, but inside is a perfect cabbage that is very healthy because it has never been sprayed.
Friday, September 30, 2011
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Handwatering
Hand watering on a beautiful early morning or evening is a pleasurable experience that gives us the time to look more closely at our garden, the plants and the soil. We have more control over how the watering is done and can cater to the individual needs of different plants more successfully. Sometimes it is the only way to water plants deeply. Watering at these times helps to increase water penetration and minimise evaporation.
Potted plants under a verandah, eaves or awning must be regularly watered by hand and it is important to water the soil thoroughly all the way through. Check by feeling below the surface to make sure it has penetrated deeply. Soil can become hydrophobic if it is allowed to dry out too much and it is then difficult to wet again. Water will bead and flow over the surface of the soil and drain away without being of use at all to the plant. Wetting agents will have to be added to restore its water holding capacity. These can be bought in liquid or powder form and are applied to the surface of the soil.
Planters with a built-in reservoir at the bottom can save you time and water. Overflow can be prevented by checking the water level as the water drains into the base of the pot, and watering will be a lot less frequent.
Whether you are watering pots or plants in the ground it is important to water only the base of the plants. Keeping water off the foliage will reduce the chance of plants developing fungal diseases like black spot and powdery mildew. Pathogenic fungal spores will travel rapidly in water splash or soil run-off and infect otherwise healthy plants. Infrequent, deep watering will encourage root systems to penetrate the deeper soil layers and have access to more permanent water, as well as nutrients. A deeper root system stabilises plants, especially trees and large shrubs, making them less susceptible to wind, drought and insect stresses.
Plants require more water when in active growth and this may not necessarily be in the summer months. Observation of your own garden situation is critical in using water efficiently. The condition of the plants and the soil varies with the season; natural rainfall, temperature, wind and growth activity and these are conditions that cannot be taken into consideration with an automated watering system. Hand watering gives you the time to observe the changing relationship of all the elements that influence your garden and at the same time gives you the time to enjoy the plants and their smells.
Wednesday, September 14, 2011
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Pond Maintenance
Water hygiene is an important part of pond maintenance. The appropriate way to improve water quality is through plant selection and appropriate maintenance techniques. Nursery manager, Tony Debincat uses a safe way of removing bacteria and excess algae. He adds a very small amount of Condy’s crystals to the water, which changes the colour to a reddish tint that lasts for around 2 days before clearing. This treatment doesn’t harm fish or plants if used in an extremely low concentration similar to very weak tea. In spring it may be necessary to clean out the pond and carry out any repair work. In summer, check water level and quality, check for algal growth, clean out the pump and filter and check for dead, diseased or damaged plants. In autumn remove any leaf letter and cut back any excessive plant growth.
Waterlilies play multiple roles in a water garden. Their large leaves create shade, produce oxygen, provide a hiding place for fish and produce large beautiful flowers. The tropical waterlilies can be distinguished from the hardier types that grow almost everywhere from the flower stalks, which are above the water. The flower buds and stalks are edible and can be used in salads, just peel off the ‘skin’ from the stalk before eating. The margins of ponds are usually planted with bog plants that are very important because they filter out any unwanted materials. Some good marginal plants include the flowering Woolly Frogsmouth, Philydrum lanuginosum and canna species like Canna indica. There are also some beautiful foliage plants such as Lepironia articulata. If you want advice or help choosing the right plants go to a specialist nursery and remember not to let your pond go, they do need some maintenance.
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Organic Principles
Organic gardens control pests and diseases in a number of ways. A good method is to employ crop rotation, which means cycling plants to a new bed every year, such that they are never in the same bed for 2 years running. Companion planting is another good method because these plants grow well together and protect one another. A good example is planting carrots, black salsify and members of the onion family alongside one another. Their different smells, colours and shapes confuse and deter insects. The same is true for sweetcorn, pumpkins, cucumbers and squash. Organic gardens are not free of pests, in fact they are full of them, but because no chemicals have been used, they are also full of predators which control pest numbers. Organic gardeners avoid using sprays by removing pest-infected fruit or shoots. For example, by removing young apples that were infected with coddling moth, the number of moths was lower the next year and fruit yield much greater.
There are many different types of organic gardens, not just fruit and vegetable but ornamentals as well. The plants in organic ornamental gardens have been nourished with rich organic matter and are therefore vigorous and healthy because they are strong enough to cope with and deter pests. Remember that organic gardening is not always easy or pretty, pests often nibble things but you will be better off for it in the long run. For example, Pete shows us a cabbage whose outer leaves have been chewed, but inside is a perfect cabbage that is very healthy because it has never been sprayed.
Friday, August 26, 2011
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Seaweed
The sea is more than salty water. The sea is a vast nutriment. It contains a large spectrum of trace elements in suspension, and some of the debris that is washed up on the beach like seaweed and shells also contains a quite a lot of these trace elements. Seaweed is one of the best soil conditioners of them all. Seaweed itself contains very little salt. It is the sea sand that is enmeshed in it that is quite alkaline and needs to be removed. It can be used around almost any plant except acid loving plants like rhododendrons and azaleas or strawberries. It can be placed around but not near the actual plant, covered by peastraw or mulch, and will gradually convert to a jelly-like substance. Seaweed is not a fertiliser but a soil conditioner that has an amazing beneficial effect on plants. It can make them frost resistant and more resistant to diseases. The trace elements in the seaweed eventually are transferred to the soil and into the plant and its fruit.
Wednesday, August 24, 2011
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Rhododendron
Planting a new rhododendron like Rhododendron ‘Bruce Brechtbill’ is extremely easy. Rhododendrons have a very fine fibrous root system that is quite compact and does not need disturbing before planting. Tease the base gently if necessary. No fertiliser should be used in the planting hole and the root ball should be placed in the hole so that the surrounding soil is level with the soil at the base of the stem. If the stem is buried beneath the soil it can go mouldy and rot. Once planted the soil should be covered with mulch, once again keeping it away from the stem. Spread a handful of blood and bone around the plant, covering it with a layer of coir to seal it and water in well. Seeing how luxuriantly these plants are growing, it is surprising to learn how low their nutritional needs are.
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Mulches
Mulch material that has not been composted can cause short term nitrogen loss from the soil beneath. As bacterial microbes use available nitrogen to aid in decomposition of the mulch above, nitrogen in the soil is depleted. Composted pinebark mulch does not have this problem. The yellowed leaves of herbaceous plants, caused by nitrogen or a nitrogen deficiency, can be relieved by the use of liquid feed containing nitrogen.
Another good composted mulch is made from wood-fibre waste from the paper-making industry. It can also be made from such things as wood crates or council collected green organic materials. It compacts well, doesn't blow away although it can have an organic odour for a few weeks. When using mulches, or composts, make sure it is kept away from the stems of plants as this can lead to fungal decay.
Monday, August 15, 2011
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Begonias
Tuberous begonias grow best in partial shade or filtered sunlight. Exposure to excessive sunlight can result in burnt flowers and leaves. Too much shade results in foliage that is very lush with few flowers.
Growers recommend shade when the sun exceeds 50,000 lux. As full summer sun in Australia is 110,000 lux this means 50% shadecloth would be required in most areas. Normal interior light levels measure around 500 lux.
Friday, July 22, 2011
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Carrot growing tips
Carrots are one of the best vegies you can get kids started with in the garden. They don't take up much space, either, so even if you have only a small patch of sunny ground available, you can get a small crop of carrots growing.
Seed or seedling? Carrots (Daucus carota ssp. sativus) grow better if planted as seed where you want them to grow, but you can grow them from seedlings, too.
Sowing times: in temperate climates, you can sow carrot seed from August to March, and in cool climates from August until January. In tropical climates you can sow carrot seed from February through to November.
Preparing soil: preparing the soil before planting is important, as carrots need deep, well-drained soil that is free of rocks, stones, old roots or anything else that could get in their way. Dig the patch over really well down to the depth of a spade (about 30cm), until the soil is fine and crumbly. Add some compost and well-rotted manure, and mix that in well with the soil.
Sowing seed: to sow seed, mark little rows in the soil 6mm deep (about a quarter of an inch) scatter in the fine seed, then cover with soil or seed-raising mix. Water with a gentle spray. Tip: carrot seed is very fine, so if you mix up the seed with some dry sand and sprinkle that into the soil furrow, you'll get a better idea of where the seed is going. It will take about two to three weeks for the baby plants to emerge. As carrot seed is fine, you'll probably sow too many, so you'll need to thin out the excess seedlings. Wait until the plants are about 5cm (two inches) high, then thin them out to 2-3cm apart. Later on, when they're about 15cm high, thin them out to 5cm apart (these second thinnings are usually big enough to eat, so you end up with better value for money, and more delicious carrots!)
Sowing seedlings: tip the seedlings out of the punnet and separate them into individual plants, then plant them into well prepared soil, spacing them 5cm apart. Water in well with a gentle spray, and keep seedlings well watered until they're growing well.
General care: carrots are easy to look after and just need a steady supply of water to keep them growing rapidly.
Harvesting: carrots will be ready for harvesting about 3-4 months after sowing. If you're not sure if they are ready, just pull one out of the ground and see how it's going. Don't feel obliged to pull them all out, either. You can just harvest as many as you need that night, and leave the rest in the ground until you need them.
Problems: if your carrots come up with weird shapes, there are two common causes. One is when carrot roots strike rocks, stones, old plant roots - the carrots will bend around the obstruction and grow into strange shapes. Another cause of odd carrots is clumps of fertiliser or manure - these will cause 'forking', where the carrot splits into a clump of several roots. The other common problem with carrots is due to too much nitrogen-rich fertiliser: you end up with lots of leaves above ground, but poor roots below ground. So, a good rule with carrots is to go easy on the fertiliser.
Best varieties: seeds provide the best choice of varieties, as your choice in carrot seedlings is quite limited. Look for good performers such as 'Topweight', 'Western Red' and 'All Seasons'. For shallow soils or pots, try 'Early Chantenay' or 'Baby'. 'Manchester Table' has cylindrical roots.
Saturday, July 09, 2011
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Currawong
The pied currawong is a large black bird, 41-51cm (16-20") with white markings on the wing, rump, undertail and tip of tail. They are found from Cape York to south-western Victoria ranging about 400km inland.
Today currawongs are common in urban areas although their native habitats are forests and woodlands.
Recent research shows that while currawongs have a specialised wild diet of bull ants and stink bugs and native berries, our introduced (not native) garden plants have provided a range of winter fruiting plants to eat during the colder months. Less than 30 per cent of Australian native plants fruit in winter, and so normally a lack of food culled younger and less vigorous birds.
Exotic plants including pyracantha, cotoneasters, privet and hawthorn - planted in the suburbs, as hedges - have tipped the natural balance in favour of the currawong by providing berries whose seeds are then excreted into native bushland.
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Controlling Bitou Bush
Bitou bush (Chrysanthemoides monilifera ssp. rotundata) is a sprawling, woody shrub from South Africa. It was deliberately planted in New South Wales from 1946 to 1968 to stabilise mobile sand dunes in sand mining areas.
Unfortunately, bitou bush has proved to be a highly invasive weed, which takes over coastal ecosystems and outcompetes native plants. It is now regarded as the worst weed in the Australian coastal environment, and has recently been listed as one of Australia's Twenty Weeds of National Significance. It occurs along 660km of the NSW coast, with almost pure stands along 220km. There are concerns that bitou bush will become the dominant species within its current range, and also that it could spread into Victoria and Queensland.
Control methods
A number of control methods have been used, including hand weeding and the use of herbicides and fire. These techniques have to be repeated over several years in order to be successful in the long term, as bitou bush has a large and persistent seed bank in the soil. In conservation areas these methods are not always appropriate, and having to repeat treatments is time consuming and expensive.
Biological control
Scientists think that an integrated management approach, including the use of biological control, is the best and most cost effective way to tackle the bitou bush problem. A research program to find suitable biological control agents has been underway since 1987. Several natural enemies of bitou bush have already been released, including the bitou tip moth and the bitou seed fly, and these insects are impacting on seed production and reducing plant vigour. It's hoped that the release of a new biological control agent, the bitou leaf roller moth, will help to reduce bitou bush to a level where it is no longer a problem, or can be effectively controlled by other techniques.
Bitou leaf roller moth (Tortrix sp.)
The bitou leaf roller moth was identified in South Africa as being the most damaging insect to bitou bush. The larvae feed on the shoot tips, then move to older leaves as they mature. At high densities, they are capable of decimating plants. After extensive testing both in South Africa and Australia, the bitou leaf roller moth has been shown to be host-specific, that is it only survives on bitou bush and its close relative, boneseed, which is found in Victoria, Tasmania and South Australia. Bitou leaf roller moth was first released on boneseed in Victoria in April 2002. The first release in NSW was made at the Broadwater National Park, with others to follow along the NSW coastline.Natalie Portman's engagement ring
Cane toads
Cane toads (Bufo marinus) are natives of South and Central America. They were introduced into Australia in 1935 to help control the beetles which were decimating our sugarcane crops. Cane toads were useless in controlling the cane beetles but they have become a serious threat to native wildlife, invading wetland habitats and competing with native frogs. They are voracious eaters and will eat anything they can fit in their mouths, including frogs, lizards, snakes and small marsupials. The toxic toads are also a threat to any animals that try to eat them, including domestic pets. A dog can die in just 15 minutes after eating a cane toad.
Cane toads have adapted particularly well to the Australian environment. They are spreading west towards Kakadu National Park and south into New South Wales at the rate of 30km a year. According to the CSIRO, cane toads occur at a density in Australia 10 times higher than the density in their native Venezuela. In the past two months, toads have been discovered in suburbs across Sydney where they have never been found before, and there is concern that permanent colonies will soon become established. It is thought that the toads are inadvertently being transported south in consignments of building materials and landscaping supplies.
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Bats in Your Backyard
The bat is a fascinating creature that has appeared in the belief systems, art, literature, film and even recipes of people for centuries. You might not realise it, but bats will probably have visited your backyard at some stage this year. There are 966 species of bat in the world, and 90 of those are found in Australia. They come in all sizes, from a tiny Malaysian bat the size of a bumble-bee, to a huge bat from New Guinea with a wing span of almost 2 metres (6'). The fossil record shows that bats evolved as flying animals at least 60 million years ago. They are the only mammals that can fly, and the bone structure of their wings resembles that of an elongated human arm and hand. Bats are divided into two major groups, the megabats and the microbats.
Megabats
Members of the megabat group eat mostly fruit. There are 12 species in Australia including the Flying-fox, which can be seen by day hanging from branches in camps or communal roosts. At night some species fly up to 30 kilometres to their feeding areas, and some migrate as far as 1000 kilometres each year as they follow the flowering of eucalypts. There are also smaller fruit bats, for example tube-nosed bats and blossom bats. Fruit bats have sharp eyesight, and their sense of smell is so acute they can detect a tiny piece of banana from 100 metres (330') away.
Microbats
These bats eat mostly insects, they have small eyes and they rely mainly on sound (echolocation) for navigation. They are small in size and weigh from about 3-100 grams.